The first flashing light unit made and soldwas Nite Guard Back in 2006 we used them in a movie TitledRegarding Chickens. What's the purposeé They have a small red flashing light thatcan cause night hunting animals to avoid an area. They charge up automatically from the sunvia a solar panel. Charge during the day and then blink automaticallyall night long. Night Hunting animals see the flashing lightand then become stressed, thinking the flashing
light may be another animal. Then the animal will avoid the area and yourlivestock or bird feed is safe. The predator will walk down wind, trying tosmell the blinking light source. When they cannot figure out what it is, theconcept is that they will go away. Some people use these flashing lights in gardensto keep deer, raccoons and other garden browsers out. The main purpose of this tutorial is not to proveor disprove how effective flashing lights are, but to demonstrate how the four availableunits compare with one another.
There are four different flashing light unitsavailable, they do NOT perform the same, some are made better than others and offer morefeatures. Nite Guard has been produced for many yearsand was the first type that I purchased back in 2005. Nite Guard does not have an access for ownersto replace batteries. But many of the units continue to work even after many years ofyear round use. they blink less and don't last as long, but are still working. Several years later, another company madea new style of flashing light units. Solar
Nite Eyes. Works the same as Nite Guard, BUT has a magnetfor mounting on metal surfaces and has two flashing led lights. Larger solar panel on Nite Eyes and two leds. There may be no difference between the twoas to weather one keeps predators away more than the other. In this regard, they performthe same in my opinion. After just one day of charging on the windowsill, they will faithfully blink through the night and turn themselves off at sunrise.
Predator Guard made some very helpful changesto the original designs. they have added a onoff switch and slanted the solar paneland added a magnet. The magnet allows you to change the positionfrequently onto anything ironsteel so that predators do not become accustomed to thelocation. keep them guessing. The angled solar panel will help keep snowfrom covering it and keeping it from charging properly. Does not come on automatically unless theon off button is pressed. this allows you to store the unit without the battery runningdown. The only style of flashing light unit
that has this feature. The other units will run down completely ifstored in a dark place. Just before I made this tutorial, another flashinglight unit showed up on the market, so I purchased six of them for review. It's called Yard Sentinel Predator Eye. 12 the price of all of the other units, youcan purchase a package of two for 24.00 Appears identical to the first design (NiteGuard). They appear identical on the outside.
Garage Door Wont Close Lights Blink 10 Times
Hi, Wayne here from Sears PartsDirect. Todaywe're going to talk about troubleshooting a garage door opener that won't close thedoor and blinks 10 times. The blinking opener lights indicate that the safety sensors arelikely blocked or out of alignment. Defective safety sensors or faulty sensor wiring alsocause the opener lights to blink 10 times. The safety sensors use an invisible beam ofinfrared light to detect obstructions in the garage door's path. The sensors won't allowthe door to close with their infrared beam blocked. First, look for an item blockingthe door and remove it. If there's nothing blocking the safety sensors, check their alignment.You may have bumped a sensor out of position.
Each safety sensor has an indicator light.The sending sensor, which has the yellow light, transmits the infrared beam to the receivingsensor, which has a green light. The yellow sending sensor light should always be lit.But you'll only see the receiving sensor's green light when the sensors are aligned andunobstructed. Make sure that the yellow light is on and then check the green light on thereceiving sensor. If the green light is off, realign the safety sensors until the greenlight turns on then try closing the door. If one or both sensor lights won't come on,check the LED troubleshooting light on the motor unit for an error code. The controlinside the motor unit flashes the troubleshooting
LED a number of times to indicate the causeof a failure. You may see one of these error codes related to the safety sensors on a commonchaindrive garage door opener: 1 blinkâ€“Sensor wires are disconnected, 2 blinksâ€“Sensorwires are shorted, 4 blinksâ€“Sensor eyes are slightly misaligned. A beltdrive garagedoor opener and some newer chain drive models flash the up and down arrows to display errorcodes. Here's a list of error codes related to the sensors on these models: Up 1 blink,Down 1 blinkâ€“Sensors are not installed or wires are broken, Up 1 blink, Down 2 blinksâ€“Wiresare shorted or reversed, Up 1 blink, Down 4 blinksâ€“Misaligned or obstructed sensor,Up 4 blinks, Down 6 blinksâ€“Sensors were
temporarily obstructed or misaligned. If yousee one of the first two error codes, check the wiring between your motor unit and thesensors for visible damage. You won't be able to check all the wiring if it's routed throughthe walls to the sensors. Check the wires that you can see and repair any broken ordamaged wiring. Here's a tutorial that will give you some additional information about repairingwires. A loose wiring connection could prevent the garage door opener from closing the door,causing an error code. Check the safety sensor wiring connections on the motor unit. Reconnectany loose wires. Make sure that you have the sensor wires connected to the motor unit correctly.You should see the white wires twisted together
and inserted into the white terminal on themotor unit. The white wires with black stripes go into the gray terminal. Connect the wirescorrectly if you find them reversed. If these tips didn't solve your problem, test yoursafety sensors directly at the motor unit. This test will help you determine whetheryou have defective sensors or a break in the wiring that's not visible. We'll check thesending sensor first. Remove the sending safety sensor with the yellow light from its doorrail bracket. Disconnect or cut the sensor wire about 1 foot from the end. The sensorwire has 2 strands. Separate the strands and strip 12inch of insulation from the endof each strand. Disconnect the existing safety
sensor wires from the motor unit. Connectthe short, white wire strand to the white motor unit terminal. Connect the other wirestrand to the gray terminal. Check the yellow light on the sending safety sensor. If theyellow light doesn't turn on, you've confirmed that the safety sensors are defective. Here'sa link to a tutorial that that will show you how to replace them. If the yellow light turnson, then you know that the sending sensor is okay. Now we'll add the receiving sensorto the test. Remove the receiving sensor from its door rail bracket and disconnect or cutthe sensor wire about 1 foot from the sensor end. Separate the sensor wire strands andstrip 12inch of insulation. Disconnect the